Breeder Requirements

Outlined below is the Breeder Requirement process for registering, fees and other information that you will find helpful. Please read through everything carefully. Our hope is that you will enjoy many years as a member in good standing with the ALCA.
There are some basic requirements you need to know before starting this process:

You must own at least one intact, registered or registerable, Authentic Australian Labradoodle, to apply for membership.

Your ALCA Breeder Membership will not be processed until you have a registered Australian Labradoodle; so do the Individual Dog and Club Membership applications at the same time.

All Australian Labradoodles must be bred to Australian Labradoodles for litters to be certified or breeders sold to be registerable.

All ALCA Breeders must have an accessible website for their program.

In order to qualify as an Authentic Australian Labradoodle, there can be NO infusions of any kind, in your pedigree after 2011. Every generation should indicate Australian Labradoodle for the sire and dam, or, the infusion had to have occurred prior to 2011.

So you are now ready to register your dog(s). What are next steps?

When purchasing a dog from a breeder make sure it is registerable with the ALCA. When the ALCA registers a dog it is also acknowledging that the dog is not only registerable, but has also met all requirements for health testing prior to registration.

Please check with us before you purchase a breeding dog or before you use a non ALCA stud to make sure that the dog is in fact registrable with our club. We will be looking at lineage and health testing very carefully.


Before a dog can be registered and bred under the ALCA standards, the following tests must be successfully completed.

-Eyes – CAER Eye Certification done by an Veterinary Ophthalmologist (aka CERF)

​-Hip and Elbow Testing (OFA, eVet Diagnostics, or AVA accepted, only) Preliminary x-rays accepted after 10 months of age.  If rated “Fair” we will not register until after the 24 month final results are “Fair” or better.   We do not recommend breeding until the finals are done after 24 months old.

-Hips (PennHIP) – Must be at least 4 months 1 day old.  (Don’t forget to get the elbows x-rayed for OFA elbows)

-Orthopedic Foundation of America Patellar Luxation Form* – (Form available on OFA website @ )

-Orthopedic Foundation of America Congenital Cardiac* (Form available on OFA website @ )                                                                                                         *both the Patellar Luxation and the Congenital Cardiac can be conducted by your regular vet

DNA Tests: (Accepted labs for genetic testing are: PawPrints, DDC, Optigen, & Hemopet ONLY)

Progressive Retinal Atrophy, Progressive Rod-Cone Degeneration (PRA/PRCD)
Degenerative Myelopathy (DM)
Exercise-Induced Collapse (EIC)
Von Willebrand Disease (VW)
Improper Coat/Furnishings (IC)

Parentage: Any dual sired litter can only be registered with the appropriate DNA testing. This testing must include all offspring and all parents.
Cleared by Parentage is no longer acceptable for the purposes of health testing or dog/litter registration.

​The following is a list of dogs that are NOT eligible to be registered with the ALCA.

These include:

​-First or Second Generation American Labradoodle infusions, also known as F1, F1B, F2, or F2B, etc.

-Merle-coated Labradoodles

-Labradoodles with a new infusion of ANY breed

-Wheaton Infusions or “Cobberdogs”

So your dog can be registered. AWESOME! Follow steps 1 thru 5 below:

1. Choose your Breeding Kennel Name. As you make your decision on what to name your program, check the ALCA Breeder’s list. You may not have a Kennel name that can to be confused with another kennel.

2. Click on the Membership tab above and choose New Breeder/Kennel Name application. Complete the application and submit that along with the required fee.

3. All ALD breeding stock must be registered. To do so, go to your breeder Dashboard and choose “add dog”.  Complete the application for each dog being registered and submit the application along with the registration fee. Your new breeder dog must carry the name of the “Whelping Kennel and then the call name you desire.”  Fill out an application for all sire’s used, if the kennel the sire came from is not an ALCA member, so we can give them an id# for registering litters.

4. Go to the Membership tab and select Member Application. Follow the prompts and submit the Breeder Code of Ethics.

5. Scan and email the following documents to the

A signed pedigree for your dog(s) from the original owner (Be sure to include the d.o.b.) If the dog is already registered with the ALCA, submit a Transfer of Ownership form along with the $10 Transfer fee.​

If your dog came from an ALCA Breeder Member, you will have received a Litter Registration document at the time of purchase. You must have this filled out and signed by the whelping breeder and yourself, and emailed to the Registrar.

Your dog(s) must pass all required test.

All test results must be submitted with your membership to the Registrar.

Along with health testing you must include:

A copy of your puppy sales contract and guarantee, which includes a 24-month (minimum) health warranty.

A copy of your puppy care instructions that you provide to puppy families

Important! All of the health tests must be taken and passed BEFORE the breeding of any dog.

Once all the applications, fees, pedigrees and paperwork are submitted, the Registrar will contact you with your official welcome to the ALCA!

You are now a Breeder Member! Your dog(s) are registered, your website is up and running with your ALCA logo, and you are planning your breeding program and the first litter. Congratulations!

Additional Breeder Tips & Recommendations:

​Contracts for every interaction with another breeder should always be obtained.  (No “handshake”, or “word of mouth” agreements between breeders)

When in doubt, contact the club registrar via the email address:

When possible, a male dog should have a natural breeding prior to Artificial Insemination (AI).

The recommended inbreeding co-efficient is 8% or less to retain heritage and traits or under 5% for more closely unrelated statistics.

The suggested breeding age: Dams not before 16 months of age.   Sires after all required testing as been completed and they can produce.

The Dam of the litter must be previously registered with the ALCA.

The Sire of the litter must meet pedigree requirements for ALCA registration and entered into our database to be able to register their litters.  Please go to your Dashboard and “Add Dog”.   (If the sire is not already registered we will need you to go through the same steps as registering him so that we have all his testing etc. in our system.  It takes the same amount of time to check and see if a sire’s is registrable as it does to register an individual dog.)  There is a $30 fee for this.

An Individual Dog may be registered if it meets all requirements, both health testing and lineage, even if it’s parents are not registered.  Please check with us first to make sure that the dog is registrable in respect to it’s pedigree before purchasing.  Send us an email with the pedigree of the dog which has the dog breeds and birthdates on a 5 generation pedigree.

Website Requirements:

​There are certain items you should have displayed on your site. ​Breeder member sites are regularly monitored to ensure compliance. This helps us all contribute to the high standards of excellence to which we strive as the Premier Australian Labradoodle Club.

​All photos shown on your website must belong to you, or you must have written permission

from the owner to display the photo on your website with acknowledgement such as “photo
courtesy of Long Ago Labradoodles”.

All breeding dogs must be pictured on your site with their registered name in full, including

whelping breeder’s prefix along with the ALCA registration number.

Any dog not eligible for ALCA registration must show “Does not qualify for registration with the ALCA.”

All litters should be pictured along with their litter registration number or the statement, “ALCA registration pending.” Even if the litters are not pictured on your site, the registration numbers must be

listed on your “Puppy” page as soon as they are received from the Registrar.

Only the current year ALCA Club logo may be displayed on your website. Expired logos from previous years give a false impression of current affiliation.

The Board of Directors warmly welcomes you! If you have questions for us at any time, please see the Board Members’ page for contact information. We are glad to help and hope you enjoy your association with the Australian Labradoodle Club of America. The individual puppy’s registration paper must be provided to the new family.

  • You must display the ALCA Litter registration number with your litter advertisement on your website.

  • If you do not advertise your litters on your site, you still must list the litter registration numbers on your “Puppies” page.

  • You are required to provide a Litter registration paper with every breeding dog sold. Whether the new buyer is an ALCA member or not, they must still be given the paper and you should ask them to register the dog.

  • If they do not intend to be an ALCA member, they should keep the paper in case the dog is ever sold, and the new owner can register the dog.

  • ALCA requires that one spay/neuter all pups that are sold as companion family members, allowing for exception where the breeder agrees to work under contract with the pet buyer to have a time limit of 6 months of age for spay/neuter and documentation provided by the vet surgeon confirming that the pet has been spay/neutered within the time frame allowed under contract. Upon receipt of such documentation, breeder will then provide the pet owner with documents, including pedigree and registration form. Breeder must maintain the signed form in their records and submit to ALCA upon request.

  • ALCA has made the early spay/neuter requirement as a necessary step to provide for the firm future of the Australian Labradoodle. It is also in the interest of each breeder member to protect their breeding program. By requiring that all pets are spay/neutered prior to breeding age, we eliminate the risk of unwanted pregnancies and unwanted and unregistered offspring.

As established by Tegan Park and Rutland Manor Breeding & Research Centers of Australia and adopted by the Australian Labradoodle Club of America 2005 revised 2007. Temperament and Soundness are the two KEY elements in a good family companion; they must not be sacrificed for any reason.

General Appearance: The Australian Labradoodle should be athletic and graceful, yet compact, with substance and medium boning. Joyful and energetic when free, soft and quiet when handled. They should approach people in a happy friendly manner with eye to eye contact. Keen to learn and easy to train. They have a free-flowing wavy or curly coat that does not shed and is possibly non-allergenic.

Size: Sizes are still “somewhat inconsistent” with no definition between male and female at this time. Accurate prediction of size, even by an experienced breeder, is not expected at this time. Size is measured to the top of the shoulder blades (withers) while standing squarely on a level surface.

Much care is needed when breeding both large and small dogs. Large dogs can suffer from rapid growth that can lead to structural problems. Soundness is of utmost importance. Oversize is a major fault. Care must be taken to keep the miniature Australian Labradoodle a solid athletic robust dog. The dwarfing of dogs can lead to many genetic and temperament disorders. Minimum size attention is of the utmost importance to maintain a healthy little dog. Most Australian Labradoodles will weigh more than their height reflects.

STANDARD: 21″ TO 24″ The “Ideal” size for a standard female is 21 to 23 inches and for a male 22 to 24 inches. The weight range tends to be 50 to 65 pounds.

MEDIUM: 17″ TO 20″ The “Ideal” size for a medium female is 17 to 19 inches and for a male 19 to 20 inches. The weight range tends to be 30 to 40 pounds.

MINIATURE: 14″TO 16″ The “Ideal” size for a miniature is 14 to 16 inches with no correlation between height and sex of the miniature Australian Labradoodle. The weight range tends to be 16 to 25 pounds.

Body: Height (to wither) to length (from sternum to point of buttock) should appear square and compact. Shoulders should have good angulation with firm elbows held close to the rib cage. Hindquarters should be of medium angulation with short strong hocks. The topline should remain level with strong loin and level croup. Flanks should rise up from a brisket set just below the elbows, but should not be excessively deep. Ribs should be well sprung but not barreled. Overall, the dog should appear square, be balanced, athletic, and with good muscling.

​Movement: When trotting should be purposeful, strong, and elastic, with good reach and drive, giving the appearance of “going somewhere”. When happy, relaxed, or at play will prance and skim the ground lightly. Excessive tightness in the hips will produce a stilted action and is considered a fault.

​Tail: Set relatively high and preferred to be carried in a saber, can be carried below the topline or “gaily” above. Curled possum-type tails are undesirable.

​Head: Sculptured, broad, well-defined eyebrows, medium stop, eyes set well apart, nose to stop slightly longer than stop to occiput. Foreface shorter than the skull. The head should be clean and chiseled and fully coated as on the body, legs, and tail. The Muzzle is measured from the tip of the nose to the stop. The skull is measured from the occiput to the stop and does not include the muzzle.

Ears: Set moderately flat against the head, the base should be level with the eye. Leather should be of medium thickness and when gently drawn forward should reach the top canine tooth. Ear leather reaching beyond the tip of the nose is considered a severe fault. Ear canals should be free of excessive hair, and not thick and bulbous. When inquisitive and alert the ear set should rise to the top of the head. Thick/heavy ear leather is a fault.

Eyes: “Slightly” round, large and expressive, always offering eye to eye contact when engaged in activity with a human. Protruding or sunken eyes are a fault. Watery or tearful eyes are a fault. Wide, round, or narrow almond-shaped eyes are considered a fault.

Eye Color: Eye color should complement and blend with the face color. Black, Blue, Red, Dark Chocolate, and Silver dogs must have dark brown eyes. All shades of Cafe’, Milk Chocolate, Gold/Apricot, Cream, and Chalk should have dark hazel to brown eyes if they have black pigment. Caramel and dogs with rose pigment may have either dark eyes or “ghost” eyes. Ghost is a hazel color range much the same as it is in humans. Flecking with different shades of hazel with green and blue/green makes this eye color quite unique. Ghost eyes must always remain soft in appearance. Cold staring expressionless appearance in all eye colors is a severe fault.

Teeth: Scissor bite only is acceptable, being neither undershot nor overshot. Miniatures must not have crowding teeth.

Nose: Large square and fleshy. Pigment: Black or Rose. Pigment should be strong. Black pigment dogs must have dark brown eyes. Pink spots or patches on the nose, lips, eye rims, or pads are a fault. Dogs with rose pigment can have dark hazel, brown, or ghost eyes. Eye rims should be rose as should the nose, lips and pads. Pink spots or patches are a severe fault. Rose should be a rich liver color.

Neck: The firm, well-muscled neck should be moderately long, slightly arched, and flow into the well-angled shoulders with no appearance of abruptness. The neck should not be coarse nor stumpy and should lend an air of elegance to the dog. A short thick neck is a fault.

Color: Any solid color including Cafe’ and Silver is preferred. Minimal white on the chest and toes is acceptable. Light, chalky, coarse hairs (kemp), sprinkled through a dark coat is permissible but very undesirable. Parti (patched) and Phantoms, are acceptable colors. Parti can be any color (except Phantom) with white on face, head and/or body. Phantoms are any shading or two-tone coloration such as a Black dog with lower legs showing a soft toning of silver or gold or a dog born dark with a golden shading at the roots or a slight brindling effect. True, pure solid colors, with the exception of Silver and Cafe’ are highly prized and are the ideal for the Australian Labradoodle. It is normal that all colors may show bleaching and discoloration over the top coat. This is called sunning and is quite expected and acceptable, as the Australian Labradoodle is an active dog and often a service dog that enjoys the outdoors. Weather bleaching or sunning must not be penalized.

The Breed Standard of Colors

​​Gold has also been referred to as “Apricot” should be the color of the inside of a ripe apricot to varying shades of rich Gold in color. A true Gold should not have a lighter root than the outer coat and preferable have an even coloration over the entire body. This color may fade as the dog grows older. Nose pigment to be black in color.

Caramel a rich Gold/Apricot very much the color of its namesake – caramel through to a deep red – must have rose pigment.

​Red a solid, even, rich red color which should have no sprinkling of other colored fibers throughout the coat. A true Red must not be lighter at the roots than at the tips of the coat. Red can fade somewhat with age, and senior dogs showing paling of coat should not be penalized.

​Chalk should be a white color but when compared to white is rather a chalky-white in color. Nose pigment to be black or rose. Chalk dogs with brown/rose noses are sometimes referred to as Caramel Ice.

Cream should be a creamy coloring sometimes with apricot/gold tinting, all shades of cream are acceptable. Nose pigment to be black or rose. Cream dogs with brown/rose noses are sometimes referred to as Caramel Cream.

​Black should be a solid with no sprinkling of any other color through the coat. Nose pigment to be black. Blue Black should be a dark to medium smoky blue in color. Blues are born black but will have a blue/grey skin pigment. The blue coat color will develop over time (1-3yrs) but as a developed adult should have an even coat color. Nose pigment to be blue/grey (matching the skin pigmentation). Rare color group.

Silver born Black but will have more of a grey skin and will develop individual silver fibers at a young age. Silver dogs can take up to 3 years to color out and become a beautiful smoky grey through to a light iridescent platinum and varying shades in between at adulthood. Uneven layering of color in the silver is normal.

Chocolate should be a dark and rich in color. True chocolates are born almost black in color and maintain the rich dark color throughout their lifetime. Color should be even. Nose pigment to be rose in color (matching the coat color). Rare color group.

​Cafe’ born milk chocolate of varying shades, and have the same gene as the silver dogs, often taking up to 3 years to fully color out to multi shades of chocolate, silvery chocolate and silver throughout. When given plenty of time in the sunshine, they develop stunning highlights.

​Lavender a definite, even smoky lavender chocolate, giving almost pink/lilac appearance. Lavender dogs are born Chocolate and can be difficult to distinguish at a young age. Any other color throughout the Lavender is highly undesirable. True Lavender belongs to the Rare Color Group.

​Parchments are born milk chocolate, will pale to a smoky creamy beige. Paling usually starts from an early age often as early as 6 weeks. As adults they can be mistaken for dark smoky Cream from a distance. Parchment belongs to the Rare Color Group.

​Partis are at least fifty percent white, with spots or patches of any other above solid color. The head can be of a solid color but white muzzle, blaze, or white muzzle/blaze combination (preferably symmetrical) are equally acceptable. Full or partial saddles are acceptable, as long as they do not exceed the color proportion, but are not preferred. Ticking in the white of the coat is acceptable but not preferred. Nose pigment to match the solid color requirements as listed above.

Phantoms have a solid base color with sharply defined markings of a second color appearing above each eye, on the sides of the muzzle, on the throat and chest, or in a chin and chest bowtie pattern as well as on all four legs and feet, and below the tail. A phantom without clearly defined face markings or one that presents with its whole face colored in the second color is acceptable, as long as it maintains all the other specified body markings. Any combination of acceptable colors is allowed. Nose pigment should follow requirements listed above based on the solid base color. Less than fifty percent white, with the remaining percent any other acceptable solid color.

Brindles should have an even and equal distribution of the composite colors with layering of black hairs in regions of lighter color (usually, chalk/cream/gold/red, café/lavender/parchment, or silver) producing a tiger-striped pattern. (rare color group)

Sables have coats represented by black-tipped hairs on a background of any solid color, with no particular pattern/location designated for such hairs.

A sincere thank you to the Australian Labradoodle Association of Australia for the use of it photos and to our members that submitted phots.



Apricot/Gold, Red, Black, Silver and Blue – must have black pigment

Caramel, Chocolate, Cafe’, Parchment and Lavender – must have rose pigment

Chalk – (appears white but when compared to a true white it is a chalky white) – may have rose or black pigment

Cream and Apricot Cream – (all shades and combinations of cream shades are acceptable) – may have rose or black pigment

While there is truly no hypo-allergenic dog breed, some dogs may cause fewer allergy symptoms. This is often attributed to the lack of shedding or very little shedding thereby not leaving allergens in the air to react to.


​The Australian Labradoodle Coat currently comes in two textures, fleece or wool.​

Fleece Coat: Length is usually around 5 inches long. The Fleece coat texture should be light and silky. Appearing “to contain a silky lanolin”, the fleece coat can be from loosely waved giving an almost straight appearance to deeply waved. Kemp ( Short, coarse, brittle hairs ) is often found around the eyes and topline. The absence of kemp is highly prized. Fleece coats, straight or wavy, rarely if ever shed. A slight shedding may occur and may be determined to the degree of wavy / curly. During the age of 8-12 months, during the adolescent/maturing time you will need to groom your fleece every week. After this “transition” period, the coat will settle down and maintenance will return to normal, requiring a comb out at least once a week. The fleece coat has been found to be allergy friendly.

Wool Coat: Wool coats are more dense to the feel like a sheep’s wool. The “Ideal” wool coat should “hang” in loose hollow spirals. Most wool coats are still exhibiting a good texture but take the appearance of a Spring not a Spiral. The spring wool coat is not desirable. A thick (dense) coat is also not desirable. The Australian Labradoodle has a single coat. Both the Fleece and the Wool coat should naturally grow in “staples” and be of a soft texture. Both the “Ideal” Fleece and Wool coats spin successfully. Hair coats (Hair texture that shed) is a fault and are undesirable. It is extremely rare for a wool coat to shed, and is the preferred coat type for families with severe allergies. To keep the wool coat long and flowing will require more maintenance. The wool coat looks beautiful cut shorter and is very easy to maintain. Grooming and a trim or clip every five to six week is all that is required to keep the short wool coat looking great.

Originally, Labradoodles were bred using only two breeds – Labrador Retriever and Poodle. This type of breeding is still being done today by many people and is now considered the American version of the Labradoodle. It is identified by the below type designations:

F-1 = A first generation Labradoodle created by breeding a Labrador Retriever and a Poodle.

F-1b = A F-1 bred back to a poodle.

F-2 = A first generation Labradoodle bred back to another first generation Labradoodle

But many years ago, breeders in Australia, Tegan Park Breeding & Research Centre and Rutland Manor Breeding &Research Centre were trying to consistently produce allergy friendly dogs starting with this formula. They believed that working with only two breeds was too limiting and began infusing other breeds into the recipe. Slowly, through careful breeding and a keen eye for mutations of the genes that would produce the desired results, the centers began to have consistent success using up to six different breeds. Angela Cunningham of Tegan Park and Beverley Manors of Rutland Manor are the co-founders of the Australian Labradoodle. Together they have built a breed type that has taken the world by storm.

The name Labradoodle was retained because the foundation is and will always be the Labrador and Poodle. But, in order to differentiate between lab/poodle cross breeds and the dogs that were developed by the aforementioned breeding centers in Australia, the term Australian Labradoodle is now being used in America and Cobberdog (Companion dog) in Australia.

The Australian Labradoodle Club of America (A.L.C.A) is the Premier club, dedicated to preserving and continuing the work that was done by the founders of the breed. We are focused on the development of the Australian Labradoodle in America and working to maintain the temperament, conformation, coats and allergy friendly traits that make these dogs so special.

The Infusion of foundation breeds ceased in 2010. After which, Australian Labradoodle to Australian Labradoodle, is the preferred breeding and the only one accepted as a Pure Breed in development, by the ALCA. Which means, no dogs with infusions after 2010 can be considered a Pure Bred Australian Labradoodle. However, those previously accepted after 2010 are on track to become pure bred Australian Labradoodles.

There are other “doodles” that may look the same, but nothing beats the Authentic Australian Labradoodle, which is non-shedding, allergy friendly, consistent in temperament and form, highly intelligent with great eye contact, companion oriented and very therapeutic in nature. No matter the size, all Authentic Australian labradoodles share the same traits. Below is the acceptable grading scale for the Australian Labradoodle.

Below is a list of dogs not able to be registered as Australian Labradoodles.

Doodles identified as F1, F1b, F2, Double Doodle, Merles, Wheaten Terrier, Irish Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier, Cobberdog, CockaPoo, Poodle, or any labradoodle with a new infusion of any breed cannot be registered with ALCA as a pure breed Australian Labradoodle.

A dog that has a F1, F1b, or F2 on one side and an Australian Labradoodle on the other side, will not be registered as Australian Labradoodles. Australian Labradoodles are to be bred to Australian Labradoodles in order to be identified as Authentic Australian labradoodles or, the infusion must have occurred before 2011.

The ALCA no longer accepts infusions that were not already in the ALCA database as of 12/31/2010. Only infusions from those dogs registered within our database prior to 01/01/2011, are allowed to be registered. Offspring of those earlier infusions are also allowed to be registered.  We did have some dogs registered with us that had infusions after the above date and so we have a different grading classification for those dogs.  Their registration # will start with “wi”.

One side of the doodles pedigree must date back to Rutland Manor or Tegan Park.

The grading system is an upward spiral: To grade a dog the grade goes up one from the lowest grading point.

Example 1: Two dogs breed, one is graded A1 and the other A3, the offspring would be A2. A – Stands for Australian Labradoodle and the number which follows, is simply the number of generations since coming over from Australian. The true number of generations which may have evolved in Australia are not factored into the American grading system. Example 2: When infusions are involved you would calculate as such: A-3I (Infusion) of P3 (Poodle 3rd generation back) + A3I (Infusion) of P1 (Poodle first generation back = A4I-P2. A= Australian, I = Infusion, P = Poodle, C = Cockapoo, etc.

A = Australian which is followed by a number after the A (A1). The number indicates the number of generations, that dog is, from the first Australian Labradoodle’s arrival in America.

The number after the or C or any other infusion is how many generations ago it was infused into the line. Example: I-P2 means that a Poodle is in two generation back meaning the grandparent of the dog. Again, an A3i-P3 + A3i-P1 = A4i-P2.

If the infusion occurred after 12/31/2010, it would not be able to be registered with the ALCA.

CERTIFICATION: Certified means that a dog has 1 Poodle only ( no cockapoo) and not more than 1 Poodle in the 3rd generation, or, no infusions in the past three (3) generations behind it. Example: Archie is an A5 and was bred to Coco who is an A5I-P3 ( 5th generation in America with a Poodle Infusion in the 3rd generation). In this case the offspring will grade as A6 Certified. Because the 3rd generation Poodle Infusion, would drop off if the infusion was prior to January 1, 2011. Had the theoretical Coco had two infusions in the 3rd generation, the offspring would not have been certifiable.

Generations: The ALCA stopped accepting infusions that were not already in the database as of 12/31/10. Only infusions from dogs already registered within the database prior to that date are acceptable.  We did have some dogs registered with us that had infusions after the above date and so we have a different grading classification for those dogs.  Their registration # will start with “wi”.


In order to register a dog with the ALCA, birthdates and gradings must be on the pedigree submitted.

In order to be certifiable the potential breeder dog may have one (1) Poodle Infusion in the 3rd generation

Note – May not have one (1) Poodle on each side, only one (1) on one side of the genealogy.

Cockapoo infusions are not acceptable.


A = Australian

I = Infusion

P = Poodle

C = Cockapoo

Think About It:

When contemplating the purchase of a dog from outside of the ALCA, or even from ALCA members, keep in mind, in order for the dog to be registered with ALCA, when graded, it would have to be able to be “Certified” as if it were a dog in the ALCA system.

If the dog wouldn’t grade as “Certified” in the ALCA registry, then it cannot be registered with ALCA. If it is able to be graded as ”Certified”, then it can be registered with ALCA but it will not be classified as “Certified” – Its offspring could be Certified if the other side helps it qualify as such.

If the potential breeder dogs parents are an F1, F1b or F2 bred to an ALD, this dog cannot be registered with ALCA. F1’s, F1b’s and F2’s are considered infusions.

If the parents of a potential breeder dog are an American Labradoodle bred to an ALD, this dog would not be registrable in ALCA.

The dam of a litter must be registered with the ALCA in order for the litter to be registerable with the ALCA. The sire has to qualify as being able to be registered or “Certified” if he were to be in the ALCA database. For a litter to be registered by a sire not in ALCA, the sire’s pedigree with dates and gradings and health records have to be submitted for review.

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